Submersible vs Jet Pump Installation: What’s Different and Which Should You Choose?
A submersible pump lives inside your well, below the waterline. A jet pump sits above ground and pulls water up using suction. That single difference (where the pump lives) determines everything about how installation works, what it costs, and whether a homeowner can reasonably attempt it. If you want the full cost picture before making a decision, start with our well pump installation cost guide.
The core difference in one sentence
A submersible pump is lowered into the well on a drop pipe and pushes water up from below; a jet pump stays above ground and creates suction to pull water up, which limits it to wells shallower than 25 feet (single-stage) or 80–100 feet (two-stage). If your well is deeper than 25 feet, and almost all drilled residential wells are, a single-stage jet pump will not work. Full stop.
For a broader overview of all well pump types before you narrow down your choice, our page on types of well pumps explained covers the full picture.
Side-by-side comparison
| Feature | Submersible pump | Jet pump |
|---|---|---|
| Installation location | Inside well, below water surface | Above ground (basement, utility room, pump house) |
| Max usable depth | 400+ feet | 25 ft (single-stage); 80–100 ft (two-stage) |
| Priming required? | No (self-priming once submerged) | Yes, must prime after any air entry |
| Noise at surface | Near-silent | Loud motor noise in living space |
| DIY installation | Difficult for deep wells (equipment-dependent) | More accessible for homeowners |
| Motor access | Requires pulling pump from well | Motor accessible above ground |
| Freeze risk | None (below frost line) | High if pump house is unheated |
| Typical installed cost | $800–$2,500 | $400–$1,200 (shallow); up to $1,500 (two-stage) |
Installing a submersible pump: what’s involved
Most homeowners underestimate the complexity of a deep submersible installation because they picture the pump as a simple drop-and-plug job. It’s more involved than that.
The basic sequence:
- Attach a torque arrestor to the pump (prevents rotation inside the casing during startup)
- Connect the first section of drop pipe to the pump discharge
- Feed the pump’s electrical cable alongside the drop pipe, taping it every 10 feet
- Lower the assembly into the well, adding pipe sections and continuing to tape the cable as you go
- Set the pump at the correct depth, typically 10–20 feet below the seasonal low water level with 5–10 feet clearance from the bottom (see our guide on setting the correct pump depth)
- Connect the drop pipe to the pitless adapter, the sealed fitting that passes through the casing below the frost line
- Run the pump cable from the pitless adapter to the pressure switch and control box
- Connect to the pressure tank, restore power, and test
For wells shallower than 100 feet, two people with basic tools can manage the pipe-lowering process. Below 100 feet, the combined weight of the drop pipe, pump, and water column makes pulling and setting without a truck-mounted pipe puller genuinely dangerous. Most well service companies have this equipment; homeowners typically do not.
After setting the pump, you will wire it. Our guide on wiring a 240V well pump covers the electrical connection in detail.
The pump brands we see most often in residential submersible installations (Grundfos, Franklin Electric, and Goulds) are evaluated primarily on depth rating, GPM output, and durability. A Grundfos or Franklin pump will typically run 25–40% more than a comparable CountyLine or Flotec, but both offer the reliability a homeowner needs in a system that is difficult to access for repairs.
Family Handyman’s troubleshooting guidance notes that “continuous pump operation without water flow suggests problems beyond DIY repair.” If a submersible pump runs but delivers nothing, the cause is usually buried underground: a broken water line, failed check valve, or damaged well casing. That is not an installation problem you can fix from above.
Installing a jet pump: what’s involved
Jet pumps are fundamentally more accessible for DIY work because all the mechanical components are above ground.
Single-stage (shallow well, max 25 feet):
- The pump motor and impeller sit in a pump house, utility room, or basement
- A single pipe runs from the pump suction port down into the well to a foot valve (a check valve that keeps the pipe primed)
- Standard connection: 1-inch or 1.25-inch suction and discharge ports
- After connecting everything, fill the pump casing with water through the priming port and start the pump
Two-stage (deep well, max 80–100 feet):
- An injector assembly (jet) is lowered into the well at a set depth, with two pipes connecting it to the surface pump: a pressure pipe going down and a suction pipe coming up
- The pump pressurizes the down-pipe, the jet creates a venturi effect that lifts water into the suction pipe, and the surface pump delivers it to the pressure tank
- This requires precise depth and pipe sizing; two-stage installation is more involved than single-stage
Priming is the catch with jet pumps. Any time air enters the system (after installation, after winterization, after a line break) the pump loses prime and will not pull water. You prime it by pouring water into the casing priming port until it fills the suction line, then restart. If the pump will not hold prime, the foot valve at the bottom of the well has likely failed.
Winterization is the other major difference. A jet pump in an unheated pump house can freeze and crack the pump body in a single cold night. You need heat tape on the pipes, insulation on the pump house, or a drain valve to empty the system before winter. Submersible pumps have zero freeze risk because the pump and all water-side components sit below the frost line.
Which pump should you choose?
We recommend submersible pumps for the majority of residential drilled wells. Here is how we break it down:
Choose a submersible pump if:
- Your well depth exceeds 25 feet (the overwhelming majority of drilled wells)
- You want the quietest operation (submersibles are nearly inaudible from above ground)
- You live in a climate with hard freezes and want to eliminate freeze risk entirely
- You are doing a new installation with no existing pump infrastructure
Choose a jet pump if:
- You have a shallow dug well (10–25 feet) and a jet pump is already plumbed in
- The existing piping and pump house are sized for jet pump connections and replacement-in-kind is the practical choice
- You need motor access without well service equipment (jet pump motor replacement is a surface job)
The cost difference matters too. Submersible pump installations start around $800 fully installed for a shallow well and can reach $2,500 for deep wells with longer drop pipe runs and specialized pulling equipment. A jet pump installation for a shallow well runs $400–$1,200 installed.
Our analysis of the two pump types in a performance-focused comparison is in our submersible vs jet pump comparison guide. That page goes deeper on GPM performance and long-term reliability differences.
Installation cost comparison
Cost breaks down differently for the two pump types, and understanding why helps when evaluating contractor quotes.
Submersible pump installation ($800–$2,500):
- Pump itself: $150–$800 depending on HP and brand (Franklin Electric and Grundfos at the higher end; CountyLine and Flotec at the lower end)
- Drop pipe: $2–$5 per foot for 1-inch polyethylene; a 150-foot setting costs $300–$750 in pipe alone
- Labor: 40–60% of total cost for deep wells, because the truck-mounted pipe puller, cable, and time add up
- Pressure tank: $200+ regardless of pump type
- For total cost-to-replace numbers including parts and labor by region, see our cost to replace a well pump breakdown
Jet pump installation ($400–$1,200):
- Pump unit: $150–$500 for a quality single-stage pump
- Pipe and fittings: much less than submersible since all piping is above ground or minimal depth
- Labor: lower, since no specialized well-pulling equipment is needed
- Two-stage installation adds the cost of the injector assembly and second pipe run, pushing toward the higher end
Both types require a pressure tank to buffer pressure and reduce pump cycling. A waterlogged tank costs $200+ to replace and shows up as rapid pump cycling. Worth diagnosing before blaming the pump installation.
FAQ
Can I replace a jet pump with a submersible pump?
Yes, but it requires more than a pump swap. You need to install drop pipe and pump cable into the well (which means either pulling any existing foot valve assembly or abandoning it), install a new pitless adapter if one is not already in place, and rewire for a 240V submersible motor if your existing jet pump was 120V. For most homeowners with a drilled well deeper than 25 feet, the conversion is worthwhile. Submersibles are more efficient, quieter, and freeze-proof.
How long does it take to install a submersible pump?
A professional well service crew typically takes 2–4 hours for a straightforward replacement on a well under 150 feet. Deeper wells, difficult casing, or unexpected complications (broken drop pipe, rusted pitless adapter) can extend this to a full day. DIY installation at shallow depths with a helper runs 4–8 hours.
Is a submersible or jet pump better for a drilled well?
We recommend submersible pumps for drilled wells in nearly every case. Drilled wells are almost always deeper than the 25-foot limit for a single-stage jet pump. Beyond depth, submersibles are more energy-efficient (no friction losses from pulling water up via suction), quieter, and eliminate freeze risk entirely. The main drawback is that motor access requires a pump pull, which matters less when you recognize that submersible motors typically last 8–15 years without service.
Can I install a jet pump myself?
Single-stage jet pump installation on a shallow well is one of the more DIY-accessible plumbing jobs. The components are all above ground, the connections use standard pipe fittings, and priming is the only technical step that trips homeowners up. Two-stage deep-well jet pump installation is more involved, particularly getting the injector depth and pipe sizing right. If you are comfortable with basic plumbing and have patience for priming, the single-stage job is manageable.
What is the lifespan difference between submersible and jet pumps?
Submersible motors in residential applications typically last 8–15 years with no maintenance. Jet pump motors, being above ground and air-cooled, are more accessible for maintenance but also more exposed to temperature swings, freezing, and physical damage. In practice, both types last 10–15 years in normal service. The difference is in what happens when they fail: a submersible requires a pump pull to replace, while a jet pump motor can be swapped in an afternoon.