Types of Well Pumps: Which One Does Your Well Need?
Submersible pumps, rated from 25 to 400 feet deep, dominate residential well installations, making up over 80% of new U.S. setups. For wells exceeding 25 feet in depth, these submersibles are the go-to choice. Check if your well runs deeper, failing that, you’ll want to consider a single-pipe jet pump for shallower depths or two-pipe deep-well jets for depths between 25 and 80 feet.
When replacing a pump fails, don’t assume you must match the model that tripped the breaker. Often, opting for another type makes sense depending on your setup. This guide delves into various types, their pros, cons, ideal applications, and top-performing brands like Grundfos and Tetra-Watt, offering insights to ensure you pick wisely without overpaying.
Quick answer: which pump type do you need?
| Well type | Depth | Correct pump |
|---|---|---|
| Drilled well | Over 80 feet | Submersible only |
| Drilled well | 25-80 feet | Submersible (preferred) or two-pipe jet |
| Bored or dug well | Under 25 feet | Single-pipe jet or submersible |
| Any well | Any depth | Hand pump (backup only) |
If you already know your well depth, that table gives you the answer. If you don’t know your well depth, check your well driller’s invoice, which lists total depth, casing depth, and yield in gallons per minute. Your county health department may also have the well log on file.
Easy to miss.
Video: “How Does My Private Well System Work?” by PrivateWellClass
The 4 main types of well pumps
Here’s the overview before we go deeper:
Worth knowing.
First, identify whether your well uses a submersible pump, which is a sealed motor and pump unit inside the well, handling depths from 25 to 400 feet, standard for modern drilled wells. Next, consider if it’s a single-pipe jet pump, located above ground with an above-ground motor that draws water by suction, limited to depths up to 25 feet, commonly used in older dug and shallow bored wells. Then, recognize the two-pipe deep well jet pump, also powered from above but featuring an ejector assembly inside the well, capable of reaching depths between 25 and 80 feet; this technology is largely replaced by submersibles. Finally, ensure you have a hand pump as a manual backup option for any depth when power fails, requiring no electricity and suitable with appropriate equipment for various depths.
Most homeowners reading this need either a submersible or a single-pipe jet pump. The two-pipe deep well jet is mostly found on older rural properties, and hand pumps are a niche solution. We’ll cover all four.
Submersible well pumps (most common)
A submersible pump sits inside the well casing, submerged below the water table. The sealed unit contains both the motor and the impeller stages. Water enters through a screen at the bottom, gets pressurized through stacked impeller stages, and exits up the drop pipe to your pressure tank.
Why this design works well: the motor is cooled by surrounding water, so it runs at stable temperatures even during high-demand periods. Pushing water up under pressure is more efficient than pulling it via suction. The result is longer motor life and lower energy costs per gallon compared to above-ground designs.
Skip it.
Depth range: 25 to 400 feet. Most residential drilled wells in the US fall between 50 and 300 feet.
HP ratings for homes:
- 1/2 HP: standard for wells under 200 feet with normal household demand
- 3/4 HP: wells 150-300 feet deep, or homes with irrigation systems or high simultaneous demand
- 1 HP: deep wells over 250 feet, or high-yield requirements
Typical installed cost: $500-$2,000, depending on well depth, pump brand, and local labor rates.
Lifespan: 15-25 years from reputable brands. Installation quality matters as much as brand. Setting the pump at the correct depth and using proper wire splices are what actually determine how long a submersible lasts.
Brands we recommend: Grundfos, Franklin Electric, Goulds Water Technology, and CountyLine. Franklin Electric is the most widely installed residential brand in the US, and parts are available through virtually every plumbing supplier. Grundfos offers the best warranty in the category (up to 10 years). Goulds is the contractor-grade option. CountyLine is adequate for budget situations and seasonal use.
For a detailed breakdown of these brands and specific models, see our complete submersible well pump guide.
Single-pipe jet pumps (shallow wells only)
A single-pipe jet pump is an above-ground unit with the motor, impeller, and jet assembly all housed together, usually in a basement or pump house. It creates a partial vacuum by forcing water through a narrow jet nozzle, and atmospheric pressure pushes water up from the well to fill that vacuum.
The physics limit: atmospheric pressure can support a water column of about 28-30 feet under perfect conditions. In practice, accounting for pipe friction and elevation losses, single-pipe jet pumps top out at 25 feet of lift. Below that, the suction can’t overcome the weight of the water column. This isn’t a defect in any particular pump. It’s a physical limit that applies to every suction-based system.
Where single-pipe jet pumps still make sense:
- Dug or bored wells 25 feet deep or shallower
- Properties where easy above-ground service access is a priority
- Seasonal use where draining the system for winter is routine
- Budget installations where the well is shallow enough
Typical installed cost: $200-$600.
Lifespan: 10-15 years under normal use. Jet pumps that run dry frequently, or that cycle on and off rapidly, fail earlier.
Jet pumps must be primed after power outages or after running dry. The priming process involves filling the pump housing and suction line with water before starting, which is something homeowners on shallow wells typically learn to do. If you’re priming your jet pump repeatedly, the foot valve at the bottom of the suction pipe is probably leaking.
For specific guidance on shallow well setup, see our shallow well pump guide.
Two-pipe deep well jet pumps (mid-depth, mostly older installs)
A two-pipe deep well jet pump has an above-ground motor but pushes past the 25-foot suction limit using a different approach: one pipe sends pressurized water down to an ejector assembly inside the well. The ejector uses that pressure differential to lift water up through a second return pipe.
Depth range: 25-80 feet. Some reach 100 feet with reduced efficiency.
Why you don’t see many new installs: two-pipe systems cost more to install than single-pipe jets, work less efficiently than submersibles at the same depth, and require service both above-ground (the motor) and inside the well (the ejector assembly). Modern submersibles beat two-pipe jet pumps on every meaningful metric at mid-range depths.
When you’ll encounter them: on rural properties built between 1940 and 1980, where the original driller used a two-pipe system that’s still running. These pumps can run for decades. When they fail, most homeowners convert to a submersible rather than replace the two-pipe system.
Typical installed cost: $300-$900.
We don’t generally recommend two-pipe jet systems for new installations. If you have one that’s working, there’s no rush to replace it. When it fails, use the opportunity to convert to a submersible. See our submersible vs jet pump comparison for a head-to-head look at why the conversion makes sense.
Hand pumps (backup and off-grid)
A hand pump is a manual pump with no electrical components. You move a handle to drive a piston or diaphragm that pushes or pulls water up from the well.
Depth options: Shallow hand pumps work for wells under 25 feet. Deep-rated models from brands like Simple Pump and Bison Pump use long drop rods and can reach 200-300 feet.
Where they make sense:
- Emergency backup for any well type (power outages, generator failure)
- Off-grid properties where electrical infrastructure is unavailable or undesirable
- Areas with frequent power outages (hurricane zones, ice storm-prone regions)
Where they don’t: a family of four can’t rely on a hand pump as a primary water source. Moving 50-100 gallons per day by hand is exhausting. Hand pumps are practical for drinking water and basic sanitation during outages, not for running showers, laundry, and dishwashers.
Typical cost: $300-$2,000+ depending on depth rating and brand. Deep-rated stainless steel hand pumps from Simple Pump run $800-$1,500 for the pump alone, not including installation.
How to choose the right pump
If you’ve read this far and still aren’t sure which type you need, here’s the decision path:
Step 1: find your well depth. Check your well driller’s invoice, or contact your county health department. The depth determines which pump types are physically capable of serving your well.
Step 2: know your household demand. Count the fixtures that might run simultaneously. Each showerhead, toilet, dishwasher, and washing machine contributes to your GPM requirement. A family of 4 typically needs a pump capable of 10-20 GPM. See our well pump GPM sizing guide for the full calculation, and our well pump installation cost guide when you’re ready to budget the job.
Step 3: apply the depth rules:
- Under 25 feet: single-pipe jet pump or submersible (both work)
- 25-80 feet: submersible strongly preferred; two-pipe jet if you have one and it’s working
- Over 80 feet: submersible only
Step 4: consider service access. Submersibles require pulling from the well for service. Above-ground jet pumps are easier to inspect and service. If the well is shallow and you do your own mechanical work, a jet pump is easier to maintain yourself.
Warning signs your pump type is wrong for your well
A few patterns that suggest a pump mismatch:
Jet pump losing prime frequently: If you’re priming every few weeks, the well may be drawing the water level down far enough that the pump briefly runs dry. The water level might also have dropped below what a jet pump can reach. Have a well contractor check the static water level before buying a replacement jet pump.
Submersible short-cycling: A pump that turns on and off every few seconds usually has a waterlogged pressure tank or a failing pressure switch, not a pump mismatch. But if it was installed before someone realized the well depth required a higher-HP unit, inadequate pressure is a mismatch symptom.
Persistent low pressure: Low pressure from a correctly sized submersible often means the pump is set too deep, the pressure switch is out of adjustment, or the pressure tank is waterlogged. Our well pump repair guide covers the full diagnostic process.
According to Penn State Extension’s private water systems guide, annual water testing and a pump inspection every 5 years catch most problems before they become failures.
FAQ
What is the most common type of well pump?
Submersibles dominate well installations, with over 80% of new residential drilled wells opting for them due to depths typically exceeding 25 feet. According to National Ground Water Association, more than 23 million private water wells exist in the US, most employing these pumps. A pump fails when it won’t start, trips the breaker, or loses prime; inspecting voltage and wiring first can prevent such issues.
How do I know what type of well pump I have?
Inspect the pressure tank located in your basement or utility room. A submersible pump, with wiring exiting directly from the tank into the floor and leading to the well casing, should be evident. Should you spot a motor housing attached to the wall or set on a base near the pressure tank, it indicates a jet pump setup. With a submersible, the motor is submerged within the well, unseen above ground.
Can I replace a jet pump with a submersible?
Yes. Converting from a jet pump to a submersible on the same well is straightforward for a well contractor. The well casing stays; you’re replacing the pipe, wiring, and pump inside it. The pressure tank and pressure switch may need re-adjustment. Budget $500-$1,500 for the conversion depending on well depth and local labor rates.
What type of well pump is most efficient?
Submersible pumps excel over jet pumps in both performance and energy use; a half-horsepower model often delivers 10 to 20 GPM while consuming only 750 to 900 watts. In contrast, a jet pump of similar capacity may require an extra 30% on the electricity meter for the same output. Over two decades, those savings add up and could make a substantial difference in your utility costs thanks to their superior efficiency.
How long do different types of well pumps last?
Submersible pumps: 15-25 years from reputable brands (Grundfos, Franklin Electric, Goulds). Jet pumps: 10-15 years. Hand pumps: 30+ years with minimal maintenance (no motor to burn out). The EPA recommends annual inspection for private well systems; annual checks catch failing components before they cause water loss.